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Repair Guide · Treasure Coast

Refrigerant Leak Detection: Find It, Fix It, Or Stop Wasting Money

If a tech tells you 'your AC just needs a recharge,' get a second opinion. Refrigerant is a closed-loop substance — it doesn't get used up. Low charge means a leak, and ignoring it costs you money every season. Here's how proper leak detection actually works.

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Why 'just adding refrigerant' is malpractice

EPA Section 608 requires technicians to repair leaks above a threshold rate, not just top off the system. Beyond the legal issue: refrigerant is the most expensive consumable in HVAC. R-410A pricing has tripled in five years. R-22 is over $100/lb on the secondary market. A 3-lb recharge today, then again next year, then again the year after, costs more than finding and repairing the leak the first time.

The four-tool leak detection process

We follow a sequence that catches 95% of leaks in one visit.

  • Visual: oil staining at every brazed joint, flare, valve, and coil U-bend. Refrigerant carries oil; oil follows the leak
  • Electronic: heated diode or infrared detector swept along every joint and the entire coil face
  • Soap test: bubble solution on suspect joints found by the electronic detector to confirm
  • Nitrogen pressure test: pressurize the system to 350 PSI dry nitrogen, watch for pressure decay over 30 minutes

When we add UV dye and come back

Slow leaks under 1 oz per year often won't trigger an electronic detector. We inject UV-fluorescing dye into the system, run the AC for 48–72 hours, then return with a UV lamp and yellow filter glasses to scan every joint. Dye finds leaks nothing else can.

The big three failure locations on Treasure Coast systems

After fifteen years of Florida service calls we know where to look first. Evaporator coil U-bends from condensate corrosion. Schrader valve cores at the service ports — a $4 part that fails on 1 in 5 systems older than 5 years. Brazed joints inside the air handler that flexed during shipping or install and developed micro-cracks.

Formicary corrosion — the slow killer

Modern aluminum-and-copper coils develop microscopic 'ant-trail' tunneling from VOCs released by new construction materials, certain cleaners, and pool chemicals. It's invisible until refrigerant starts leaking, usually within 5–8 years. There's no repair — the coil must be replaced. We see this constantly in newer homes near St. Lucie West and Tradition.

Repair vs. replace the coil

Single accessible braze joint leak — repair, $300–$600. Multiple coil leaks or formicary corrosion — coil replacement, often warranty-covered. Entire system 12+ years old on R-22 — system replacement saves money long-term. We lay out all three options with honest numbers.

What we do after the repair

Pressure test with nitrogen at 350 PSI for 30 minutes minimum. Pull a deep vacuum to 500 microns, isolate the system, watch for vacuum decay (rises mean residual moisture or a remaining leak). Weigh in the factory charge — never trust pressure-only charging. Verify superheat and subcooling within OEM spec. Document the leak location, repair method, and final charge for your records.

Reviews

What Treasure Coast Customers Say

5.0
37 Google Reviews

My highest recommendations for Devon and the Maritime Air team — thorough, honest, and on time. They explained everything in plain language and didn't push any unnecessary upsells.

Spencer Fuller
May 2026
Google

Devon has provided thorough maintenance and excellent service. Truly family-owned care — they treat your home like it's their own. Highly recommend for Treasure Coast homeowners.

Oh Canada
March 2026
Google

Working with Devon on my HVAC system was a great experience from start to finish. Fair, clean install, and the system has been running perfectly through Florida summer heat.

David Alker
February 2026
Google
FAQ

Common Questions

Why can't you just add refrigerant?+

Refrigerant doesn't get 'used up' — if your system is low, there's a leak. Topping off without finding the leak means the same call in 3–6 months, plus EPA fines for venting refrigerant to atmosphere. Wrong work, plain and simple.

How do you find a refrigerant leak?+

Four tools, used in order: visual inspection for oil staining at joints, electronic halogen detector for active leaks, soap bubble test on suspect joints, and nitrogen pressure test for slow leaks. Stubborn leaks get UV dye added and a 72-hour return visit.

How long does leak detection take?+

Fast leaks: 30–60 minutes. Slow leaks (under 1 oz per year): up to 2 hours including pressure test, sometimes a second visit after dye circulation.

Is it worth repairing a leak in an old system?+

Depends on location. Leak in an accessible joint or fitting — repair. Leak in the evaporator coil of a 10+ year R-22 system — usually time to replace. We give you the honest economics.

What are the most common leak locations?+

Evaporator coil U-bends (corroded by humidity), Schrader valve cores at the service ports, brazed joints at the compressor, line-set rub-throughs in the attic, and TXV brazing.

Can a leak make me sick?+

Modern R-410A and R-454B refrigerants are non-toxic in normal exposure, but they displace oxygen in enclosed spaces. A large leak in a small mechanical room can cause asphyxiation. R-22 (older systems) is being phased out partly for ozone reasons but isn't acutely toxic either.

What's formicary corrosion?+

Microscopic tunneling corrosion in aluminum and copper coils caused by VOCs in indoor air. Looks like 'ant trails' under a microscope. Florida coastal homes with new construction materials see it within 5–8 years. Coil replacement is the only fix.

What affects the cost?+

Leak location accessibility, refrigerant type and quantity needed, whether the coil itself needs replacement, warranty status, and whether burnout cleanup is required from contaminated oil.

Low on refrigerant? Don't just recharge — find the leak.

Call (772) 236-4277 or schedule online. Class-A licensed across the Treasure Coast.

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